gtgourmetcruises

A bit further south then return to Southport

2011-04-17T05:03:00.000-07:00

Journeying south on Winyah Bay then the ICW to McLellanville we again enjoyed pristine cypress swamps and beautiful water views of osprey and eagle habitats, and experienced one of the most spectacular porpoise encounters (10 of them swimming around and under the boat, breaching the surface and rolling over – possible mating activities) right after sighting our first alligator of the trip at noneother than the intersection of the ICW with Alligator Creek inlet from the ocean. After overnighting along the Leland Oil dock with other venturers we began the three day journey to retrace our route back to Southport again witnessing several wildfires as we did in the Bahamas. Again we enjoyed wonderful food at Wacca Wache and at Snooky’s at Cricket Cove. After enjoying a most creative fried green tomato sandwich the first visit I devoured an equally amazing dish of potato skins topped with crab in a cream cheeselike base with a topping of fried onion and Key West lime sauce on the side. We departed yesterday literally at the crack of first light to beat out the approaching tornado laddened storms racing our way across Alabama, Miss and much of the plains. Today we will go out for a final sail to Bald Head Island and then load up the boat on the trailer and begin our 3 day drive home. It has been a wonderful week of learning more about tides, with their ebbs and flows, and the entire interaction of the tidal zone fish and wildlife, as well as movement coordination living in about 30 sq ft with your spouse. Now we know how the Gemini and Apollo astronauts must have felt. And just watching oysters spit as the water receded from their attached perch on a pier was enlightening.

ICW Waccamaw River and Georgetown

2011-04-12T19:03:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Georgetown after another great intracoastal waterway marina overnight at Wacca Wache (Happy Waters) with some tremendous travels down the Waccamaw River and tributaries Prince Creek offering wonderful scenic respite generally from suburbia and vacation condoland. Each day we have been able to partially sail but mostly motor the waterway arriving at the day’s destination just in time for the Master’s Golf coverage on tv. Wacca Wache followed with an evening of Bluegrass Music by the Salty Dogs and a late night hail storm (which by the way is a very interesting sound on a sailboat foredeck).

Our first day in Georgetown we rented a car to take advantage of the most unique Brookgreen Gardens nearby (we actually passed right by it on the ICW but the entrance has been blocked for preservation purposes) which was absolutely azalea amazing and their new butterfly enclosure was smile invoking.

Then today with rain forecasted and occurring we headed to Charleston for the 150th celebration of the cannon firing on Ft. Sumter which officially kicked off the Civil War; after first touring the historic district of Georgetown (the third oldest city in the state) and it’s Rice Museum, of course buying a bag or two of heirloom golden rice.

2011-04-08T14:49:00.001-07:00

Back in the US we visited again with our friends Ann and Gary and had a terrific meal at Fishy Fishy in Southport (love those shrimp and grits with tasso ham!). Yesterday we began our trek south along the intracoastal waterway passing sometimes treacherous Shallotte Inlet and spent the night at Crickett Cove Marina enjoying one of the very best meals we truly have ever had (and there have been quite a number) at a grill named Snooky’s. Immensely creative menu by chef Rich, as Cindy had a sandwich that included fried green tomatoes (we are in the south after all) chevre chees, applewood bacon and arugula. WOW. Interesting day today passing thru several swing bridges and overnighting near Myrtle Beach at Osprey Marina.

Abacos Green Turtle and a Barefoot Man

2011-04-02T06:36:00.000-07:00

Our second week in the Abacos has been as enjoyable as the first with friends Amy and Brad Wade joining us on Parrot Cay and another get together with Bill and Nina Collins. After 6 years of coming to the Bahamas we finally were in the vicinity on the date of the Barefoot Man concert on Guana Cay yesterday although a strong low front’s weather system brought a couple of downpours that threatened to postpone the event , but the sun came out and it was a beautiful day. And another first after several attempts was a visit to Green Turtle Cay, which was absolutely gorgeous and serene with our favorite spot being Gillam Bay that could have been the tv set for Gilligan’s Island. Today we are off again to kayak, snorkel, and visit Pete’s Pub at Little Harbor. While we will as usual regret to leave this paradise we are looking forward to our week on the intra-coastal in South Carolina

Abacos again

2011-03-27T08:33:00.000-07:00

Our first week back in the Abacos on Parrot Cay has been spent doing what we love here – snorkeling, relaxing and eating out at some of our favorite places like Captain Jack’s, the Abaco Inn and Pete’s Pub. We have enjoyed dinner at the Hopetown Lodge with Northport friends Nina and Bill, and their friends Rena and Mike from Charlotte; and made some new friends as we ventured out sailing on the authentic Bahamian sloop Abaco Rage (No pictures for this as we were too busy just holding on during this racing wild ride).

Hog Wild Days

2011-03-27T08:23:00.000-07:00

While there are no frogs hopping across the landscape we find ourselves at Kermit’s airport lounge at the Exuma International airport arriving an hour and a half before departure by tour guide Jay’s, and admittedly the taxi driver’s predictions based on post music festival crowd departures, precise deadlines and now apparently faced with a one and a half hour delay (that would be in American departure standards but “on time” in Bahamaland lingo, like our 6:20 am flight the other day that had to wait 40 minutes for sunrise – thinking reschedule?). Our stay here has been wonderful and we look forward to returning on our, or someone else’s yacht , someday as there are more beautiful places to anchor here than anywhere else we have been. We enjoyed the most fantastic trip through the lower Exumas on Robert’s Adventures yesterday and thrilled to snorkeling Thunderball Grotto. Amazing with all the human presence abuse that there is even any corral left there at all. We also swam with sharks , watched swimming pigs, and walked the longest sand bar in this hemisphere (eat your heart out Johnny Depp –who does own a home here as does Nicholas Cage –where doesn’t he). We also stopped to see the indigenous iguanas.The day before we revised the movie “Wild Hogs” and rented scooters to go south to Little Exuma. This is only the second time in our 25 years together that Jay has been willing to Ride the wild machine. Good times rolled.

Exumas ahoy

2011-03-18T06:49:00.000-07:00

We have arrived in the Exumas and staying at Regatta Point in Georgetown, a charming inn close to town but separated by a causeway for privacy. There’s a Heritage Music Festival in town that we hear each night, and last week a major sailing regatta from which many of the boats remain in this sailor’s paradise. After breakfast yesterday at Club Peace & Plenty we journeyed across Elizabeth Harbor to Stocking Island for some snorkeling at coral just yards off the beaches, and a conch stop at the Chat ‘n Chill. The Exumas are every bit as gorgeous as the Abacos to which we have often traveled with sand as white as that found on Treasure Island.

Beautiful coral strewn beaches and a yacht voyeurs paradise.

Nassau Honks

2011-03-16T07:30:00.000-07:00

Our stay at the quaint Arawak Inn has been convenient for the jitneys into downtown Nassau for walking up the Queen’s steps to Fort Fincastle, strolling the straw market with hors d’oeuvres at Graycliff and a terrific salmon Panini at the British Colonial hotel. Afer a second delicious breakfast at the Cricket Club this morning it’s off to Paradise Island’s Atlantis resort. We’ve decided in addition to cricket , and for our friends who aren’t aware the World Cup of Cricket is taking place in 2011, the national pastime is honking car and truck horns. A number of different tones for different purposes, mostly to let you know it’s okay to walk across the street in front of them in the virtually constant stream of traffic

2011-03-13T14:58:00.000-07:00

Leaving the snow behind in Traverse City we arrived safely to our friends home in Southport, NC. After launching yesterday Gary , Ann , Jay and I took a terrific daysail at the mouth of the Cape Fear river past Bald Head Island.

Only to be boarded for inspection by the Coast Guard on our return.

Final days of North Carolina sailing

2010-04-13T03:42:00.000-07:00

After a comfortable stormy night at the Inlet Inn in Beaufort and several sightings of the Shackleford ponies strolling the beach across the anchorage viewed from our balcony,

and a reexploration of the historic graveyard, we reverse traversed the sound back up Adams canal to SeaGate marina where we enjoyed the local good ole boy morning and evening chatter and a glimpse of Masters coverage on the marina tv. The next day we sailed up the Neuse to Fairfield Harbor and Northwest Creek marina, which is one of the best run, amenity filled, friendly big boat marinas we have enjoyed. Our last sailing day we explored Broad Creek under sail then with dying winds we motored the short 5 miles back to New Bern in time to watch the final 2 hours of Masters and Phil Mickelson’s win as we experienced the ambiance of the Raw Seafood Bar, where we ran into some friends of some Michigan people we met at the Northwest marina – as I said very friendly folks all over the place in NC. Definitely our kind of marina and we are always amazed at how many people stop by to chat with us about the Catalina 22 , as it seems the world has owned one at one point or another in their early sailing years and recall this with unusual fondness. Yesterday we finally got the mast down and the boat on the trailer, after a stopped freight train blocked first the railroad bridge through which we needed to go with the boat, then the town through which we needed to drive the trailer for about 2 hours; then the lower tide resulted in moving the boat to a different ramp before we had enough water to pull her out.

The day ended with a relaxing night at the Hilton and dinner at Captain Ratty’s with rooftop views of New Bern and the historic Episcopal church. Then of course their was the requisite photo with one of the New Bern painted bears that are all over town and a stop at Bradham's pharmacy where Pepsi Cola was invented . Jay found nirvana at yet another ice cream place this time enjoying a flavor called "Udder Pecan" Smoothe!!!Today we begin the trek home. All in all a terrific multi faceted vacation. We are already planning to return next year to explore Okracoke and the Pamlico River.

New Bern, Oriental and Beaufort North Carolina

2010-04-08T08:35:00.001-07:00

After a tearful goodbye from Ann to the Balia we trailered same to New Bern where we launched then sailed to Oriental the first day with great close hauled and beam reach winds of 15 to 20mph. Oriental, a true sailing capital of 1,000 permanent residents and 2,700 yachts is a quaint town that reminds us of Northport in Michigan. Everyone stopped by to say hello, and we shared stories with fellow cruisers and there was a tiki bar right at the Oriental marina and the Coffee Bean right across the street where all the locals hang out in the am , a few singing the tune of “High Hopes”. Then the next day it was down Adams Creek to Beaufort, a 30 mile jaunt with in our nose wind that had us donning our foul weather gear. Today we stay over in Beaufort to explore and relax, but the marina here is very welcoming with free drink wooden nickels at the Dockhouse restaurant, one of my favorite places for a fried shrimp sandwich with cole slaw, and there is an ice cream parlor within 30 ft of the boat.

TBAF Part 2 or Dune Heaven

2010-04-04T15:43:00.000-07:00

We returned to one of our favorite spots anywhere, in Southport, being met in Wilmington by our friend Anne who transported us from the terrible throngs of BusWorld to the elegantly extravagant environs of Bald Head Island via the new ferry port at Deep Point Marina. This morning our walk on the beach was a beautiful poetry of conflicting waves at the Cape Fear point, and luxurious sand dune grasses. We said our farewells at the Bald Head Island Light, returning to Southport and the little Balia for our trip north to sail Pamlico

Train, buses, automobiles and ferries Part 1

2010-04-04T15:34:00.000-07:00

Train to RDU and bus to Wilmington then Ferry to Bald Head Island. During our 6 hour layover in Raleigh connecting from Amtrak to Greyhound methods of transportation we walked the streets of downtown Raleigh to discover a QT biker benefit (that’s Queen’s Together) and chatted with “007” and “???”(forgive me guys but I will have to fill the rest in later when I find the piece of paper on which I wrote your names) of the Decepkion Biker Club. Phenomenal noise as 150 bikes left the Convention Center, with only one showoff hitting a streetpole. As we waited forager Jay was magically drawn to a Krispy Kreme for a bite of lemon filled nirvana. We then walked back to the train station to collect our luggage (no they didn’t lose it this time) stopping at the Mexican restaurant we had briefly visited on our way south , Ibarra’s, for a terrific authentic lunch and a great conversation with bartender Ted who had been on the same cruise boat our friends Dean and Laura had been on last month just one week before them ( SMALL WORLD). After my diatribe on the bathroom experience of the train in reserved coach, I will leave our bus experience to your imagination. Except let me say that there are still people in the world who need to comprehend the term “waiting in line”.

Florida Friends continued

2010-04-02T07:56:00.001-07:00

The next visit was across the state on the Gulf Coast to the beautiful home of Dick and Joyce Ring, whom we first met when they were guests at the Grey Hare Inn last fall, for yet another fun baseball game. This time it was the Baltimore Orioles who got trounced by the Boston Red Sox. During our 3 days here we have absolutely fallen in love with their dog Poppy, and on our last evening after a round of golf at Manatee County’s course we enjoyed a sunset dinner on the Manatee River which leads to Saratoga Bay and the gulf. We also spent a delightful hour during our stay at Jack and Diane Frestel’s condo in downtown Saratoga in the midst of the art district catching up on Jack’s recent restaurant acquisitions and plans for Dirty’s twin brother Dick Deadeye. We have really enjoyed walking the beach on Anna Maria Island, which is almost as white as the one at Coco Beach in Treasure Cay.

Florida Friends

2010-04-02T07:50:00.000-07:00

The feelings expressed in the last post remained as our first restaurant meal back in the states was spent with an old friend of Cindy’s from the late 60s and summer camp counseling, Kim and her husband Fred , was at a classic Floridian waterside large openair casual dining experience which under different circumstances would have been very nice. Our reaction was overwhelming nausea to the manner in which most table’s diners were stuffing food into their mouths, as if the goal was speed and volume rather than tasteful enjoyment. We followed this with a trip to the ballpark watching the St. Louis Cardinals spring training game against Minnesota which was dramatically won at the bottom of the 9th with 2 outs and a terrific two run homer.

Return to USA

2010-04-02T07:49:00.000-07:00

One of the things we most enjoy about travel out of the USA is being in a place so wonderfully different, but it is always a bit of a culture shock to return to the relative frenzy of our home country which then seems to heighten sensitivity to some of the more negative aspects of our society. The consumption orientation and greedy self absorbed nature of our economic culture becomes all too visible after being in a country with so much less and yet so much more to offer.
For example, and not necessarily in chronological or geographic order. I just went to the car communal bathroom on the train as we are traveling from West Palm Beach to Tampa and discovered not only urine on the toilet seat, which of course is not so unusual, but actually free flowing in a tidelike manner back and forth depending on which zig or zag the train was on. So in order to utilize the facility I was forced to put paper towels down in the path of the yellow stream, then wipe the seat and adjoining areas, use different paper towels (can you already here the buzzsaws cutting down more trees?) to soap and wash the seat, then dry. After my own use I then used even more paper towels to wash and dry the bottom of my shoes. It’s so much fun to make use of such professionals talents while on vacation, but I did draw the line at picking up the urine soaked towels preferring to report the situation to train staff who were very grateful for my efforts but of course why wouldn’t they be.
Now come on guys I know the train’s moving and all but there is a grab bar to hold on to!! As Jay gave me a personal review that this really isn’t all that difficult to manage, I can only assume that the previous pee-ers just don’t care about the effect their inactions have on others. Amtrak does such a nice job of keeping their trains clean but it’s difficult to keep doing that if every time someone walks in to use a bathroom they walk out with urine on their shoes then tracking it a few steps or more onto the train’s carpeted walkways or up on the seat (since of course that inconsiderate behavior is also rampant). Perhaps this is why many public urinals in Europe just gave up and left the holes.

Hopetown Harbor Lodge

2010-04-02T07:44:00.000-07:00

Our last two nights were spent at the Hopetown Harbor Lodge where we truly enjoyed reducing our area of interaction to within several hundred feet of our adorable Caribbean beach cabana, and sometimes within even just a few feet; as Cindy endured the Bahamian version of Montezuma’s revenge. This volcanic experience began our last night on the boat where advantageously the sink is but a foot away from the toilet providing double options for cleansing

Return to Hopetown

2010-03-28T08:43:00.000-07:00

The day greeted our sail with rainy skies but a good wind and we anchored in one of our favorite spots, Hopetown Harbor; where Brad finally was able to secure a local delicacy of fresh conch salad, merely marinated in lime juice and spices, and we all enjoyed one more view of the lighthouse. The Hopetown Lighthouse is one of 3 remaining lighthouses in the world that are still kerosene fueled and cranked by hand.

Man O War Cay

2010-03-28T08:40:00.000-07:00

The following day’s sail to Man O War Cay was one of the best yet with sunny skies and a brisk wind which for once was not directly into the face of the direction we wanted to head. On land Jay and Amy continued their tradition of ice cream and bench enjoyment, while Brad enjoyed a Cuban cigar fishing off the back end of the boat at our mooring.

Guana Gifts

2010-03-28T08:38:00.000-07:00

Our evening at Guana Cay was filled with a beautiful Grabber sunset and a dinner of local lobster. The next morning we announced our arrival in the area on the cruisers’ net, broadcast on channel 68 vhf every morning at 8am with all the local happenings.

Sail to Treasure Cay Abacos

2010-03-24T08:21:00.000-07:00

The wind gods were against our plan but we finally made it the 15 miles from Marsh Harbor to beautiful Treasure Cay and the Coco Beach Bar, where Cindy and Amy helped with (or was that helped themselves to) the barbeque cooks.Coco Beach is rated one of the top ten most scenic beaches in the world and it lived up to its billing. We also learned that Jay is still capable of sprinting 50 feet in 5 seconds, just barely making it into the group shot with his final leap. Then to top this before our departure in the afternoon, we woke up to the treat of dolphins swimming just off the back of the boat and Brad fished off the end of the pier – no fish (well there was that one small one) just one shark, 2 sting rays, a jellyfish. More to come as we set sail for Guana Cay and will anchor off the Gumelemi Cay reef for lunch.

Wades Abaco Arrival

2010-03-23T04:36:00.000-07:00

The newest episode of “Lost” took place as Cindy and Jay took a virtual Hawaii Five – O video of the 4pm Marsh Harbor to Hopetown Ferry to capture the very arrival of our friends the Wades from Lowell Michigan; scaring the skipper of the ferry who likely thought he was being pursued by terrorists only to discover that there were but three passengers on the boat and there wasn’t a Wade amongst them. Meanwhile on Elbow Cay surveying coconut trees and curly tail lizards at the Harboredge Bar were Amy and Brad at the dock waiting for US!! Having been dropped off by the 2pm ferry (since their complete airline schedule had deviated from anything resembling the original plan) at the wrong dock at the North End (for those who don’t know about one mile to town); they befriended complete strangers (to those of you who know them this is probably no surprise ) who came to rescue them and delivereth them forth to the somewhat correct location where they were finally united with Cindy and Jay (as seen in the foursome photo). The next day provided some terrific rain-drenched scenery from the top of the Hopetown Lighthouse, and our arrival on the Sunsail boat (that’s A & B in the cockpit of the newly christened yacht “AMBRA” in Marsh Harbor) where we experienced “Fire in de hole erotic rum” with umbrella providing minimal protection from the elements (as seen in photo of large cherry)

Experiencing life in Parrot Paradise

2010-03-19T07:03:00.000-07:00

Our first day in Paradise was spent enjoying our cottage and the island, and the second provided calm winds so we ventured south on the Sea of Abaco to Snake Cay with kayaks precariously loaded onto our runabout for a beautiful 3 hour paddle through a marsh area; returning to White Sound and the Abaco Inn for one of our favorite sandwiches the Mantua ( a grouper open faced sandwich with sprinkled parmesan cheese).

Then as day three’s winds picked up again we decided to head into Hopetown for a rented bike tour south to Tahiti Beach stopping for lunch at “On Da Beach” and more fantastic scenery.

Arrival in the Abacos

2010-03-19T06:50:00.000-07:00

We spent one night at the Conch Inn finalizing preparations for our second week hear chartering a 36ft Jeanneau with Sunsail in Marsh Harbor, then it was over to Parrot Cay to a bit of heaven on earth. This visit we are staying in the South Cottage rather than the Perch which we enjoyed our first 3 trips here. Pictures are of Cindy on the patio looking out at Lubbers Quarters, the next island south, and Jay in the same spot enjoying breakfast while reading a Clive Cussler novel; our breakfast patio and Cindy on the dock getting ready to board ouir 17ft Boston Whaler at Island Marine. Our first night , the actual date of Cindy’s 60th birthday we were joined by local friends at the cottage (for which photos will be posted at a later date since they were taken on a different camera)for some conch fritters and fried pickles made by Capt. Jack’s owner Lana.

Birthday Bash Bust

2010-03-19T06:23:00.000-07:00

Cindy seen in photo with all of the close friends and relatives who took the time out of their lives to help celebrate my 60^th birthday with me in Florida. While it literally rained on my parade I was forced to some major introspection about relationships throughout the months long planning process for this event. Many people never responded at all, a trend of casuality that is plaguing our society, depriving us of civility in general. In the end many non-attendees offered explanations for their inability to be there that frankly if the exact situation were reversed, I would not have offered in excuse, and have been there without fail. That led to the introspection about the basis of my value system with friends and relatives versus theirs.

Shortly after this non-event I received an email from Beth Buelow, a lifestyle coach, which contained a rather pertinent message. This was “ Being attached to certain outcomes is different from wanting to achieve a goal. Being attached means that we want nothing less, more or different than our desired outcome. We perceive anything else as failure.Being open to outcomes, however, means that we have a goal in mind while being open to the unpredictability of the journey and how we get there. We are more in line with our intention (how we want to feel) than the finished product”. Wonderfully wise words but difficult to hold onto when you feel hurt by the actions virtually everyone that you felt important in your life, so perhaps I needed to change what I offer in relationships to be more on a par with others abilities to relate.

Particularly disappointing was that I had planned this portion of our trip with the hopeful intention of sharing some childhood experiences of the Beachcomber with my sister Sue, who was one of the no-shows after indicating she would be there, and thus central to the planning at this location.

At the same time I was also finishing reading the book “The Match” about an historic golf match with Ken Venturi, Ben Hogan, Byron Nelson, and Harvie Ward at Cypress Point, the author proclaimed underlying theme of which is “Friendship, loyalty, the real meaning of pride, and the high price paid for idealism and integrity in the real world.” Toward the end the author is talking about the ends of some of these lives and writes the following: “No four men will ever play such a match again, for the love of the thing itself. The genuine way they lived their lives makes most of today’s fast and frenzied sports and entertainment culture seem like so much packaged goods, a self-conscious, inauthentic hustle. In their best and worst hours alike each one of these four stood his ground, put all he had on the line, and for better or worse lived with the consequences of his actions and moved on. Some green, untested souls might be tempted to wonder why one should still care, but none of us are here forever, we’re not even here for long; and if it’s true that our collective past exists inside all of us, unless we take time to bear witness to the best of those who strived before us, our chance to learn from their lives will be lost forever, and we will be the poorer for it.”

It’s no wonder that I have always loved the game of golf as it rewards a certain purity of heart, and the courses on which it is played predictable in their design’s intent; infinitely more understandable that the idiosyncratic behavior of humans. I guess I just wish my friends and relatives would feel more like I do about them as far as their importance in my life journey. For now I will move on to one of our favorite places in the world and leave further reflection for another time

On the train again, I can't wait to get on the train again

2010-03-13T16:58:00.000-08:00

We decided to use another form of transportation to get to the southern reaches of Florida this year and really enjoyed our overnight on Amtrak from Raleigh to Ft. Lauderdale, even though they decided to shortcheck our luggage to Tampa. Most of the photos are a bit blurry due to the constant vibration, but I think in the case of Rab and Charles a bit of fear was evident as this was their first such excursion. Waiting for the train in Raleigh we had an outstanding meal at "Pits" barbeque and another terrific spot Jibarra mexican that we hope to hit on the flipside return.

Jay of course gallantly climbed into the upper bunk.

North Carolina grits

2010-03-13T16:52:00.000-08:00

We shared a wonderful two days with Michigan friends Dean and Laura Johnson in Southport, North Carolina. The highlight of the trip had to be the caramel, cashew, chocolate pieces vanilla ice cream we shared on Jay's birthday. But we also took a round trip ferry ride from the new terminal in town to Bald Head Island.

Cindy's 60th Birthday Celebration winter trip

2010-03-08T07:22:00.000-08:00

We have initiated stage one of the B Vacation Celebration Invitation Itineraries, and Rab and Charles were positioned in the car with sunglasses at the ready position.

On our way to the March 11th birthday celebration at the Beachcomber resort in Pompano Beach, which will be followed by a Bahama Beach bash on March 15th in the Abacos, we stopped first in Indianapolis to visit friends Kitty (bathrobe bathing beauty after a night of Canary Tweeting) and Bob Parrin, Ann and Gary Mills

(that's Jay waving hi and bye to an out of action due to illness Gary's place of employment as we leave town), and Jim and Robbie Cooper.

On the way through Lexington we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants just to get a loaf of their world famous cornbread, wth a side of black bean/cubed roast beef chili with sour cream and chives. Heaven!

That evening found us in Johnson City, Tennessee at the home of Marilyn Wolcott where she surprised us with her homemade cornbread and chilli. What are the odds of that,

and the next day on our way to rendezvousing with Dean and Laura Johnson we pulled over at a rest stop and enjoyed the remaining DeSha chili and a combination of cornbreads. If anyone is counting that's three straight meals of the exact same gas inducing food. It's certainly a new record of repetition for us.

2009-04-20T10:19:00.000-07:00

After once last long look at the Atlantic we headed home to Michigan via golf with friend Marilyn Wolcott in Johnson City, TN and Bazbeau pizza with the Parrins and a short stay with the Savianos in Indy. Our first look at home waters occurred in New Buffalo, MI as we stopped for a burger at our favorite place for that fare, Redamak's. The view of Lake Michigan was a welcome sight after our travels and we again appreciated what a beautiful area of the world we live in. Along the way we had varying tastes to the drinking/bathing water and none was so sweet as that from our well Up North. The marshlands of the south all gave a slight smell and taste of sulfur, while a few place in South Carolina and Georgia were almost undrinkable due to an earthy onion taste and smell. As Dorothy said "There's no place like home".

An ending to Remember with new beginnings

2009-04-13T06:35:00.000-07:00

As we wind down our odyssey we returned to Southport NC in the same weather we left it - 30 degrees. But within a day it was back into the high 60s and we ended our journey as it began, with project days of work on the Balia, painting the trailer and cleaning and waxing the boat. As always we enjoyed a terrific stay with creative Gary and Ann with one highlight being evening cocktail hour on one of the public docks where we set up another version of camp and came up with ideas for a new restaurant. Even though we were out of town for the Masters, we did a new version of the annual Mini-Masters at the Oak Island golf club with Ann and Gary slicing balls around alligators and turtles amidst the blooming Azaleas. Today we head back to Michigan with stops again in Tennessee and Indianapolis.

A Dream Come True

2009-04-07T08:27:00.000-07:00

On our return to North Carolina from Florida we stopped in Augusta and were able to secure at some fairly great expense two tickets to the Monday practice round of the Masters Golf Tournament. The beauty of Augusta National did not disappoint and we were amazed at the elevation changes to which television cannot do justice. While not many players were out due to the wind and cold we luckily were able to hook up with Chicago Golf acquaintance Ben Crenshaw for a few minutes. While we have put on a Mini-Masters Golf Party every year for the past 15 years or so, it has always been a dream to get to actually see this historic course. Cross that one off the Bucket List!!

Up a not so lazy river

2009-04-07T08:17:00.000-07:00

After traveling the St. John's downriver we then journeyed upriver to the Acosta River Marina just short of Welaka, with the most scenic portion being the smaller creek along Murphy Island. There were several sightings of alligator, turtle, osprey nests on navigational markers and herons along the way. We anchored for lunch and each day reorganized our little cabin from nightime sleeping to breakfast and other daytime uses.

Up the St. Johns river to Palatka

2009-04-02T07:38:00.000-07:00

Our search for a marina to not only launch, but dock the Balia and store the trailer somewhere up the St. Johns River from Jacksonville, laborously brought us to historic Palatka and the Boathouse Marina where we instantly encountered the owner of a beautiful Trawler who was traveling the Great Loop from , can you believe it, Traverse City; named John Mater.
We motorsailed one day downriver 29 miles to Cove Springs past the local nuclear power plant to tie up at the Crab Shack restaurant, a local treasure and fine example of true southern hospitality and Po Boys with a quarter mile long dock that I am sure is packed in the summer but which we had pretty much to ourselves for a quiet night aboard. Then a terrific sail back to Palatka to weather out some storms, taking advantage of the weather by going to the PGA Golf Hall of Fame and a lunch rendezvous with Jay's U of Chicago Executive Program buddy Jack Frestel and wife Diane who were driving that same day from their home in Sarasota to Nags Head North Carolina where Jack is opening another Dirty Dicks Crab House restaurant.

A few final tourings

2009-04-02T07:34:00.000-07:00

At the end of the Talbot/Amelia Island segment of our journey we revisited Fort Clinch from the land side, and toured Kingsley Plantation where Cindy picked up a book on catching and preparing shrimp; after which we again relaxed with Hinsdale grade school friend Jim Stocker and his wife Annette.

Intracoastal to St. Mary's River

2009-03-26T12:23:00.001-07:00

Once the weather improved to a more reasonably 10 – 15 mph winds we set sail for Georgia, and enjoyed an overnight on the Balia at St. Mary’s after navigating several miles of the Intracoastal Waterway. The highlight of this small sleepy southern town just across Cumberland Sound from Fernandina/Amelia Island , Florida was our dinner at Marianne’s Sterling Southern Café with shrimp and grits in a completely different Cajun style of spicy cream sauce. The navigational highlight was upon our return down the St. Mary’s when we encountered a Trident nuclear submarine with full naval and Coast Guard escort going out the channel to the Atlantic, and a passby of historic Fort Clinch. Truly awe inspiring! The last day Balia was in water at Amelia we ventured south on the IC 8 miles to Nassau sound and back with a lunch anchorage. During our travels Rab and Charles have developed different uses for a watchcap as both sleeping bag and rastahat

St. Augustine

2009-03-26T12:04:00.000-07:00

St. Augustine, the oldest city in America, much like Key West has gotten tourist organized with trolley trips, and mock setups at the Fountain of Youth (nonetheless a beautiful park), and tourist oriented shops down very quaint streets. We continued to be amazed by the contributions of Mr. Flagler to Florida, and the most interesting fact of that day was that discoverer Ponce de Leon was a short 4’10” whereas the local Indians were between 6 and 7ft. The lighthouse is certainly one of the best preserved and most beautiful that we have seen, and the view from atop the 235 steps was spectacular for Jay. Our rice and beans Cajun dinner at Harry’s was flavorful and the ambiance just what we expected and desired after a long day of walking

Arrival Talbot Island

2009-03-26T11:58:00.000-07:00

Our camping adventures continued in probably the most scenic campsite we have ever enjoyed at the Little Talbot Island State Park. During the first few days we endured the noise of a couple of self indulged springbreakers, but have had at least six nights of the peace and quiet that camping outdoors can be all about and have gotten close to naming each of the raccoons that visit each night. Noseeums have remained relatively unseen, and the bike and hiking trails are excellent. The intrepid little Balia experienced its first, and shall we now commit last, teetering fork lift launch at the Amelia Yacht Basin, a terrific marina on the IC, and stayed at the dock while a Nor’easter went through with 30 mph winds. However, we made the best of it by playing golf at the Fernandina Beach GC , shopping in Fernandina, and exploring the area, and getting together for dinner with a grade school friend of Cindy’s , Jim Stocker and his wife Annette who live in Amelia Island Plantation just minutes from our campsite. While at the dock Balia was visited by local cat Port, as well as a manatee

What's bugging Cindy

2009-03-16T18:00:00.000-07:00

Can you say Ceratopogonidae and Vibrio vulnificus? Well that pretty much sums up Cindy’s focus for the St. Joe Peninsula experience, with Mr. Untouchable and KnowItAll just fine!!! The latter is a bacteria present in raw oysters found in Apalachicola Bay and of course little miss culinary experience affectionado had to have them several times and even now still claims that they were one of the most fresh and tasteful oysters on the half shell ever enjoyed, and are right up there with the quality of the Pacific Northwest. So our first night in Port of St. Joe was spent at the historic and renovated Port Inn, with very conveniently located indoor plumbing. The following morning was spent at the nearby health clinic where the brochure on this difficulty explains that for those at risk ( and it actually lists “ people with cancer or any medical treatment that weakens the body’s immune system” , infection can lead to death within two days, and that aggressive antibiotic treatment is the most effective therapy”. I definitely don’t remember that being mentioned at the end of my radiation treatment!!!
Our campsite at the State Park was idyllic with some amusing signs about alligators and swimming (leading one to wonder just what would a lifeguard do), and even though only 5 of the 17 varieties of snakes in the park are poisonous we encountered only one small gopher snake (at least that’s what California born Jay says it was – he’s also told me about the cone of protection against lightning on a sailboat). We decided due to the shortened visit that we would not put the little Balia in the water, instead kayaked the bayou and enjoyed a bike ride followed by a parching walk through the wilderness area of the park.
Now that the warmth of spring has arrived with temperatures in the 70s Cindy also incurred the wrath of the Ceratopogonidae, aka “no seeums (truly a misnomer as you actually can when they are of this giant size), sand fleas, etc.” which really do itch and hurt quite a bit more than mosquito bites and as later learned on the internet – “two people may receive an equal number of bites, and one will not be affected while the other will turn into a walking pincushion” so I guess that will be my new nickname. The gentleman from Grand Rapids in the campsite next to us had, I kid you not, one bit for every square inch of space on his arms and legs; while mine are limited to a few areas of such density like forearms and back of legs, with a few neck appearances
Our most favorite restaurant was the Docksides at the marina in St. Joe, and we found the only truly Peninsula local dive the “Coneheads” rather curious not only in name; because when we went there our first night in the mood for the publicized pizza and were told “it wasn’t in yet”, or perhaps the phrase was “we don’t have it yet” which made us wonder if there was something like an actual season for pizza much like oysters.
And to wax poetic for just a moment longer, camping truly does bring all of the negative human nature habits in combination with technology, about which many of us complain, so much more to the forefront of the conscious. We have been treated by springbreakers playing the game “Catchphrase”, which has an increasingly rapid beeping component as a timer to indicate the end of one team’s competitive turn, being instead played with one person just giving clues to the rest of the group without any competition, thus making the noise merely irrelevantly irritating; parents engaged in power struggles with their children so that while they have carefully chosen which battles to wage, have left the rest of us within hearing distance to endure the ones they want to ignore (I even heard the quintessential camping experience of som-mores being withheld for potential punishment if the child didn’t sleep in the bed the way the parent had intended), and then there is the issue of self absorbtion. So many people seem completely unaware of their impact on those around them, such as the young man who pulled out a guitar at 10:15pm to serenade his tentmate with her request of “ do you know Kumbaya” just 15 ft away from our tent where the geriatrics were trying to actually sleep.

2009-03-11T16:14:00.001-07:00

Our stay in Destin is winding down but we have enjoyed several sails on the Choctawhatchee Bay , one with our Rotary friends from Traverse City, Chris and Ron Zimmer. At the dock we have been amazed at the wildlife that seems so tamed by the presence of humans, with numerous pelicans standing by for ship cleanup duty and elegant grey herons appearing out of the mist much like the teridactyls in Jurassic Park. And the sand on the beach is so fine and white due to the lack of shells which when crushed by the pounding of waves add color. Ron and Chris also helped us celebrate Jay's 67th birthday at AJs on Destin harbor.

2009-03-11T16:12:00.001-07:00

After an overnight in the hometown of John Travolta, Ocala, Florida we arrive at Appalachicola for one night on our way to Destin. Quaint town with a wonderful visit to the Tin Shed store which has so many nautical items, Cindy had to restrain Jay and confiscate his credit cards. In Destin we have enjoyed our campsite at Henderson Beach State Park tremendously but fog has been a friendly invasive companion every day until noon.

2009-03-11T15:57:00.000-07:00

Upon returning to the states and leaving the land of conch fritters, unfortunately our misadventures continued as we discovered our truck had been broken into while it was parked at the Holiday Inn at the West Palm Airport and much of our camping and biking gear and tools were stolen. The common comment by many in the area including the West Palm police was “welcome to southern Florida where if it isn’t bolted down it is fair game”. Our sincere apologies were extended to Robin Williams who was the undeserving recipient of the continuing negative Ruzak Karma, as we attempted to relieve our grief by purchasing tickets to a concert which was one day later cancelled due to his heart condition. It is a good thing that neither Jay or I are superstitious or we would likely not be able to move forward, but forward we went. We enjoyed a brief revisit with Hinsdale friend Mandalee, who entertained a fellow Debutante frm 1969 Betsy Riggs; and revisited the Beachcomber hotel where Cindy's family vacationed for many spring breaks in the 1960s

2009-03-11T15:51:00.000-07:00

During our second week we continued our culinary exploration to a couple of new places we had not yet been like Grabbers on the beach at Guana Cay, and Nancy's restaurant at Sandy Point where we watched a local fisherman shell his conchs;and returning to others we have enjoyed in the past such as On Da Beach (owners must have been from Chicago, home of Da Bears!) and Cracker P's

2009-03-11T15:40:00.000-07:00

The second week of our stay in the Abacos was spent on the paradise of Parrot Cay, to which we have returned 3 times in the past 4 years. The location of this island is shared only in the strictest of confidence as we want to share what we have found to be the quintessential Bahamian experience but as there are only two cottages on this island we don’t want it to become so popular that we can’t get in. The pictures are of the beach area, the living room of our cottages showing the “walls” that open with a block and tackle pulley system, which for sailors such as ourselves is close to Nirvana, with beautiful sunsets from our patio.

New Heights of Beauty and Friendship

2009-02-22T16:41:00.001-08:00

No trip to this paradise is complete without a climbing of the Hopetown Lighthouse from which the views are spectacular and usually windy. On Dan and Carol's last night on the island we joined up with new found local friends; Jill and Chris Prewitt who own the Buttonwood Cottage in which we have stayed this week, and Bobbie and Ed Collins who know several of both Cindy and Jay's as well as Carol and Dan's friends in Michigan.

Fiddler on the Roof Sunrise Sunsets

2009-02-22T16:07:00.000-08:00

The overwhelming beauty of Hopetown Harbor is highlighted by nature's sunrises and sunsets. Carol's boyfriend Dan became the official photographer of the former as Cindy and Jay mellowed even further into island time in the mornings with evenings featuring a 'Goombay Smash" at Jack's right across from the famous and frequently photographed Hopetown light (having recently been repainted and undergoing more renovation)

Elbow Cay North End Beaches

2009-02-22T15:28:00.000-08:00

From our location just north of Hopetown we have enjoyed scenic biking in to town over rocky roads along the Abaco Bay side (the island is also divided into North and South ends, the latter being vehicle friendly while the north boat and golf cart oriented and there is even a gate dividing the two right in the center of Hopetown). Cindy and Carol enjoyed a girls' day in town ( a pentathalon of beach walking, biking, shopping, braiding, and lunching), featuring my favorite conchburger meal.

Hopetown Elbow Cay arrival

2009-02-15T06:52:00.000-08:00

On Friday the 13th Bahamasair safely delivered us to our favorite vacation spot - the Abacos Islands and beautiful Hopetown Harbor on Elbow Cay where we joined up with fellow Traverse Citian Carol Murray at our Buttonwood Hammock hideaway.

To Space and other Air flights

2009-02-15T06:41:00.001-08:00

Our side trip to Kennedy Space Center was very informative and tremendously impressive, yet unfortunately our chance to finally view a shuttle launch on Feb. 12 was postponed by NASA, so we took in an exciting airboat ride on the St. John's River through some Cypress swamps with lots of gator sightings.

Back to West Palm and Titusville

2009-02-15T06:27:00.000-08:00

We returned to the Atlantic side of this beautiful state to visit with Michigan friends Dean and Laura who were staying with cousin Phyllis and husband Brent at a terrific intercoastal waterway home in Jensen Beach.

Across Florida to the Gulf

2009-02-15T06:24:00.000-08:00

Leaving little Balia in storage in West Palm we traveled Alligator Alley to Naples to visit our good friends the Romanovichs and the Gibsons, highlighted by a wonderful day on Geoff's Tiara to lunch at Cabbage Key and a stellar round of golf. Photos will follow in a later blog as the memory stick for that part of the trip was left in the truck when we left for the Abacos.

2009-02-04T05:23:00.000-08:00

Captain Jay at the helm of the little Balia, and Cindy's capture by the spongeman

2009-02-04T05:17:00.001-08:00

Eating in Key West is always an experience and one of our favorites was a Cuban restaurant right on Mallory Square for more rice and beans and conch soup with Key West roosters running about. After lunch it was on to Duval for a braiding.

2009-02-04T05:10:00.000-08:00

After enduring numerous mechanical boat difficulties, and some frigid weather (that would be 50 degrees for those of you remaining in the true cold weather zones) we nevertheless enjoyed several windy adventures on the high Atlantic seas. Other days were filled with sight-seeing in Key West and Cindy's getting her hair braided.

Florida Keys arrival

2009-01-26T09:29:00.000-08:00

Two weeks after leaving the snowy North , and after a visit in Pompano with Cindy's Hinsdale High School friend Mandalee,we have arrived at Sugarloaf Key, just 20 miles northeast of Key West; after stopping at one of our favorite lunch stops to celebrate. The Island Grill is now a traditional stop of ours for fresh local seafood, and our tentsite at KOA is remote (far from the kazillion RVs and bathrooms) and set among the mangroves and low flying pelicans. For fellow sailors Up North it's 75 degrees and sunny today with winds of 15-20 mph.

Mini Great Loop Underway

2009-01-17T08:46:00.000-08:00

The first port o'call of Southport,NC has been reached as we brought a frigid winter clipper along; so that the temperature is a nippy 35 degrees as we haul the 22ft sailboat Balia out of the marina onto its trailer with help from fellow sailors Ann and Gary. Early next week we travel to the hopefully warmer Keys

2008 Winter Circle Cruise

2008-01-28T05:14:00.000-08:00

Reservations are being accepted aboard the 42ft Catalina sailboat Balia for a Great Loop cruise beginning in Traverse City, Michigan mid September that will travel through the Illinois Canal, Mississippi, Tenn-Tom river system to the Gulf of Mexico by the end of October. During Nov and December charters will be available along the Florida Coast and Keys, and in January and February the yacht will be available for adventures in the Bahamas with a home port of Elbow Cay, Abacos. Spring of 2009 the boat will return to the Great Lakes via the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, Hudson River, Erie Canal, and Trent-Severin waterway. During any of these times the boat will be available for up to four passengers.
Starting in September this blog will be updated on a daily basis to provide a diary of current events, activities, and personal adventures for all to read. For more information please call 800-873-0652 or visit www.gtgourmetcruises.com